Pork & mackerel - a very Suffolk ‘Vitello Tonnato’
Vitello tonnato is an Italian classic; it hails from Piedmont in the North-west of Italy. It’s a cold starter of veal and tuna and it’s utterly delicious. Here, we’ve swapped in local Blythburgh pork tenderloin and smoked mackerel from the Southwold fishmonger.
The dish can be made entirely in advance, and simply thrown onto a platter when you are ready to serve. Some simple green leaves and fresh bread make this a more substantial starter, or even a great light lunch option on a summer weekend.
And the wine pairing?
We recommend a Pinot Noir with a little age as the perfect pairing. Pinot Noir is a lighter bodied red with moderate tannins making it a good match for paler meats such as pork - it won’t be overbearing. It offers delightful red fruit flavours and bright acidity to cut through the creamy mayo. Added to this, “smoke with oak” is an excellent pairing mantra; the smoked mackerel mayonnaise echoes the smoky notes you may find in an oak-aged Pinot Noir.
Read more on new world Pinot Noir here.
Prep time: 15 mins + 1 hour marinating
Cooking time: 18 mins + 1 hour resting
This recipe serves 6.
Ingredients for the pork:
500 g tenderloin
½ lemon, zest & slices
12 sage leaves
4 tbsp olive oil
Salt & pepper
1 knob butter
Ingredients for the mackerel:
1 smoked mackerel fillet, skinned & boned (approx 80-100 g)
1 egg yolk
1 tsp dijon mustard
2 anchovies
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
½ tsp flakey sea salt
50 ml olive oil
1 tbsp creme fraiche
To serve:
1 bag of rocket
2 heaped tbsp capers
Fresh bread & oil
Method:
Trim away any sinew from the pork loin, then rinse and pat dry. Marinade the pork in a large mixing bowl with the zest of ½ a lemon (slice the lemon after zesting and add this as well), 12 sage leaves, 4 tablespoons of olive oil, salt & pepper. Marinate for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, make the mackerel mayo. Remove any skin or bones from the smoked mackerel then flake into a small jug blender or a mixing bowl if using a hand blender. Add the egg yolk, Dijon mustard, anchovies, white wine vinegar, and sea salt. Whizz until smooth, then with the motor running very slowly, add the olive oil in a slow and steady steam to emulsify. Finally, fold through the creme fraiche then set in the fridge until needed.
When you are ready to cook the pork preheat the oven to 180 C. Heat a large, dry frying pan over a medium/high heat until almost smoking. Sear and seal the loin for 2 minutes turning often. After 2 minutes turn the heat down to medium/low and add a knob of butter and continue frying for 1 minute, turning and basting constantly. Pop the pork into the oven to roast for 12-14 minutes, depending on the circumference of the tenderloin. It may still feel soft after this cooking time, but it will continue to cook a little as it cools. A blushing pink is ideal for the tenderloin, rather than well cooked.
Allow the pork to cool for at least 1 hour before slicing and serving.
When you are ready to serve, use your sharpest knife to finely slice the pork and spread this across a platter. Dollop and drizzle the mackerel mayo on top, followed by some capers - possibly crispy-fried! - a scattering of rocket leaves, and a drizzle of olive oil.
Severe with bread and butter and a generous glass of Pinot Noir - tuck in!